“Up north the pines stand straighter and thinner, as if God himself has reached down and given each one a gentle tug. It’s a cold, wet day, aging snow and mud bleeding out onto gray pavement, gray road fleeing the scene into gray sky. Statton’s General Store squats at the exit just off Highway 51 north of Tomahawk, a gatekeeper to the winding road to Rhinelander. Their sign reads GUNS & AMMO in print larger than the store name. It says you can get your hunting and fishing licenses here, along with live-enzyme fresh raw honey, cheese, sausage, antiques and gifts, before repeating its “guns & ammo” pledge in yellow down the right-hand side. This is not Madison, but it is so Wisconsin.”